Tuesday, July 15, 2014

The End

Well this is it. My final post, probably. Yesterday was the last day of the program. Thursday I will leave Bet She'an and stay with my family in Bet Shemesh until my flight next Tuesday. I have had a wonderful time. I've had great experiences, gained a lot of work experience, learned a lot, and made some good friends and connections.

Last Friday I did work on my presentation. For Shabbat dinner I went to the Egyptian family's house that I went to with the Taglit-Birthright group from Cleveland a few weeks ago. They were happy to have me over. Dinner was extravagant and delicious. I had a good time talking to the grandchildren and hearing them both compliment and criticize my Hebrew. Saturday I didn't do anything special. I worked on my presentation and final report.

Sunday I went with Ilan and Octavian again to Horvat Omrit to work with the group of students from Macalester College. We worked with them again on mortar and stone conservation of the steps of the temple. After we finished with our teaching Ilan took us to some sites that he has worked on around Tiberias and that aren't usually open to the public. First we went to the synagogue at Migdal, which dates to the time of the Second Temple. It has mosaics and frescoes, as well as a stone block that is carved with images from the Temple, including a depiction of the Menorah. Nearby the synagogue are some excellently-preserved mikveh baths. After visiting the synagogue we went to see the theater that was part of the ancient Roman town of Tiberias. We didn't stay long because we had to head back to Bet She'an, but it was cool to see parts of the region that tourists don't normally see. I have never visited Tiberias, but I really hope I can go for a weekend trip sometime.


Sunday evening I left Bet She'an and went to my aunt and uncle's house in Bet Shemesh for the night, so I could wake up early and head over to the Rockefeller Museum in Jerusalem for our final presentations. My presentation went very well I think. It was a short summary and explanation of the work I did at the synagogue of Maoz Haim. The presentation was a spoken conservation report. I talked about the history and importance of the site, the problems and conservation issues, and the conservation work we did. I also gave recommendations about further work that needs to be done. It was quick and painless. After the presentations we had a quick meeting with the staff to give and get feedback, and then we were done. I headed back to Bet She'an.

So there it is. My time here is finished. I survived over five months studying conservation and working with experts and professionals all over the country. I really enjoyed my time here. It was a challenge getting accustomed to the way life is here in Israel, but I loved it all the same. My Hebrew has greatly improved. I had some wonderful experiences that I will never forget. I am so glad I went on this program. Thank you to the staff, Shelley, Alison, Ornit, Michael, Kamil, Raanan, all the professionals we worked with, and everyone else that was involved in the planning and execution of the program.

Even though I am sad that the program is finished and I will be leaving next week, I think I am ready to head home. I'm ready to go back to the US and see my friends and family again, to watch bad television and eat both delicious home-made food and icky fast-food.

If you want to hear more about my experience or know anything specific, just ask! Also check out my photos, I just added some new ones!

Friday, July 11, 2014

Entering the Final Stretch

Well the end is near! I can see the finish line. Wednesday was my last day working with the guys at the synagogue at Maoz Hayyim. On Monday I will be giving my final presentation and report at the IAA offices in the Rockefeller Museum in Jerusalem, and then Saving the Stones 2014 is finished. After that I have about a week before my plane leaves to return the US.

This week it was my job to do the finishing touches to the face of the wall of the apse that we had done coping on. Finishing involves adding mortar to the cracks and seams on the front of the wall to make it look smooth and neat. Over the course of the week I worked on another section of the wall inside the apse, adding mortar and stones to the cracks to fill in the wall. I am also working on my final report and presentation for STS. I am focusing on the coping and finishing work I did for the apse and southern wall of the synagogue.

Wednesday night a group of families from my synagogue back in Cleveland, Bnai Jeshurun Congregation, came to visit Bet She'an, and I joined them for the evening. We went to Yardena, a Kurdish village near Bet She'an that has been set up to display Kurdish Jewish culture to visitors. We baked special pita, watched a short film about Kurdish culture, saw some traditional dances, and ate a delicious dinner.

Yesterday (Thursday) I went with Ilan (the boss) and Octavian, one of the other workers, to the site of Horvat Omrit near Qiryat Shemonah in the Upper Galilee. A small group of students from Macalester College in Minnesota is conducting excavations there, and we are giving them a short introduction to stone conservation. We are working with them on the stairs of Herod's temple, the third temple he built, after the Temple in Jerusalem and the temple at Caesarea. Thursday we taught them the basics of adding mortar to cracks and seams in the limestone. They are working today on their own, and we will go back on Sunday to finish up the lesson. My job was mostly as the translator, since neither Ilan nor Octavian speaks English very well, and neither of the staff from Macalester speaks Hebrew. In my translations and explanations I was able to test my knowledge of what I've learned over the last five months about stone conservation. Direct translating from Hebrew to English was difficult, but because I know the process and methods I understood what needed to be said. Ilan told me later that I did better than just a normal translator exactly because of this, because this was the work that I was doing and I understood the methods.


Sunday, July 6, 2014

Better Late than Never

Sorry guys about not posting earlier. The days are long and tiring, and combined with the World Cup I just can't seem to find the time or energy to write sometimes. Also I haven't been doing anything new, so posting about doing the exact same thing two or three times a week just wouldn't be interesting for you guys to read or for me to write. So here is a summary of everything I did since my last post.

The weekend after my last post I visited my aunt and uncle in Bet Shemesh. The other guys who I'm working with in Bet She'an had vacation days Sunday and Monday so I had some days off I could make into a trip and not worry about getting back to work on time. I had a nice relaxing few days with my family.

When we got back to work starting Tuesday we finished the reconstruction and conservation of the wall of the apse. Because of lime mortar limitations it took all three days of the week to finish, so there isn't really anything new there. Now that it is done the wall looks really nice. When you go to some archaeological site to visit and you see those flat, smooth wall tops, usually about a couple of feet high that look like nice cobblestone streets, that's what we did. In my opinion our work isn't nearly as good as some examples at really famous sites, but it gets the job done. Don't tell my boss I said that!


On Thursday evening the Taglit-Birthright group from Cleveland came to Bet She'an, and the people at the Partnership connected me with them so I could join them. I went with them to a local household for a wonderful Egyptian-style dinner, and then we went to the archaeological national park to see the sound and light show. It was similar to the light show at Masada. Since there is no famous 'story' for Bet She'an, the narrator talked about the history of the sight with accompanying cartoon images. After the ten-minute presentation the show continued with a tour of the site, with lights illuminating some of the more important 'attractions'. Walking through the bathhouse and the market in the semi-dark was cool. After the tour Lior, part of the staff of the Partnership, took me to a bar outside of Bet She'an to a meeting with some Israeli students who were starting a program to make young people in the region more involved in the city and with groups that visit from abroad, like Cleveland. We stayed there for a short time and had a drink, and then went home.



The rest of the weekend was pretty routine. Friday was American Independence Day, and I celebrated by sleeping in, eating and translating some documents from Hebrew into English for my final presentation. Saturday I had Shabbat lunch with the landlord, but otherwise it was the same. Nothing special.

That was my weekend. I promise I will post again later this week. I am starting some new work that I will be using to prepare my final presentation for the STS practicum, so I can talk about that in my next blog. Until next time!

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Jackhammering Away

Welcome back to my blog everybody! Sorry I haven't posted earlier this week about work but they've been working me hard and I've been falling asleep early. I will catch up on everything with this post.

Sunday and Monday we were continuing with the coping of the wall of the apse. The work was more of the same, and we finished early each day because we ran out of mortar to work with. There really isn't much else to say about the work, and like I said I was pretty worn out after and didn't do much besides eat, sleep, and watch the World Cup.

Starting Tuesday we had some more interesting work involving a jackhammer. After the excavation of the site in the early seventies there was some rudimentary conservation work done. Back then, the go-to material was cement, which we now know is a big no-no. The conservation work they did was to put all the mosaics onto a cement floor, as well as putting a cement cover layer over most of the walls. Now we had to remove a lot of this cement, using a jackhammer. We took out part of the cement floor that was extra and didn't have any mosaic on it, in order to reconstruct part of an older wall that used to be there. Then we destroyed the top of the eastern wall of the apse that had been reconstructed in the seventies using bad stone blocks and cement. Tuesday the entire day was spent hammering away at the cement. Unfortunately I didn't get to use the jackhammer this time, but there is still plenty of cement that needs to be removed, and maybe I will get to help with that. Part of preparing the wall for new stones involved removing dirt and other material that was beneath the cement, and that was my job. I was digging out the dirt and small stones that were in the wall, as well as removing the dirt at the broken end of the genizah inside the apse. It was basically like doing archaeology, complete with finding pottery.


Wednesday and Thursday we started reconstructing the wall that we took apart. The amount of material that we removed meant that we have to build two or three courses of stones within the wall, which requires several days in between laying each course down so the mortar can dry and harden. Yesterday and today we placed the edge stones as well as the first layer within the wall, and next week we will hopefully finish filling in the rest of the wall. We also rebuilt the side of the genizah that was missing.

If you may have forgotten, Thursday is the last day of the work week here, so I'm done with work for the week. Sunday and Monday are also vacation days for the work team, so I won't be resuming work until next Tuesday. If I do anything exciting then I will write another blog post, but if not then I will write again at the end of next week. Time to go watch Team USA crush (or at least tie) the Germans!

Oh I forgot to mention, I found this little guy in my kitchen when I got home!

Sunday, June 22, 2014

An Exciting Weekend with Cleveland

Happy new week to all my followers! This post is going to cover what I did over the weekend. Normally I just include my weekend activities in the following week's blog, but this past weekend I did quite a bit more than I normally do, I so thought it deserved its own post.

You may recall that Thursday afternoon I had a meeting with the Jewish Agency in Bet She'an who works closely with the Jewish Federation of Cleveland, its partner city. At this meeting, in addition to talking about the hospitality available to me while I am here, we also talked about groups, organizations, and people I know that will be visiting Bet She'an from Cleveland over the summer. The first group that comes to Bet She'an is the group Israel-Cleveland Next (ICNext for short). ICNext is a group of high school students that spend two years learning about "the core issues of Israeli society and the geopolitical situation in Israel today" and "initiating, organizing and galvanizing peer involvement in educational, political and cultural activities designed to build support for the State of Israel" (quote from their website). Part of their program is connecting with Israeli students their age and traveling to Israel to get a first-hand look at what they learn about back in Cleveland.

Since I am very involved in the Jewish community in Cleveland I know quite a few of the people on the program, as well as some of the staff members. For this reason I thought it would be good and fun to spend some time with them while they were in the "neighborhood". Avigail, a staff member of the Partnership office in Bet She'an, set up the meeting between me and ICNext on Friday morning. I went with another of the staff of the Jewish Agency to meet ICNext at Kibbutz Nir David, a kibbutz just outside of Bet She'an and ate lunch with them in the cafeteria. After lunch we all went to a private part of the river that runs through the kibbutz and feeds the natural springs known as Gan HaShlosha or Sachne. We spent the afternoon there relaxing on the banks or swimming. I didn't go swimming, but everyone who did looked to be having lots of fun. That night I had Shabbat dinner with the landlord again, and it was just as delicious as last week.



The next morning Amnon, the leader of ICNext, took me to an art museum in Ein Haroud near Bet She'an. He was doing a training program for the Israeli group Shinshinim, where Israelis take a gap year between high school and the army and become involved in volunteer and service activities to promote connections between Cleveland youths and Israel. The visit to the art museum was to start training them to be able to lead discussions and activities for teenagers at galleries in Cleveland of Israeli and Jewish art. While at the museum we had a tour of the galleries and learned how to best engage teenagers in a visit to an art gallery that they may not feel connected to. The visit was very interesting because these two aspects were combined. After visiting the museum we went to one of the Israeli's homes for lunch, which was a delicious feast. That night I joined ICNext for an evening of pizza making and "drum-circling".

It was really nice to visit with the kids from Cleveland. Getting to see familiar faces and speak English was a welcome break from working with Israelis every day. It was like a little visit from home.

Israel-Cleveland Next's website: http://www.icnext.org/
Information about Shinshinim: http://www.jewishagency.org/beit-shean-valley-springs-and-cleveland/program/9566

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Another week come and gone

Hey guys, here is another post from me about my work. I'm still in Bet She'an and working in kibbutz Maoz Chayim. I'm still having fun even though the work is pretty much the same. I hope you enjoy reading!

At the synagogue we are still doing the same work along the wall. Eventually all the walls of the building need to have coping, so we are working one section at a time. The building is shaped as a basilica, with an apse and three rectangular sections separated by pillars. Tuesday we did coping on the section of wall left of the apse but before the corner of the building, and yesterday we worked on the opposite side, on the right section of wall next to the apse. We didn't quite finish that section of wall because we only have a limited amount of mortar to use everyday and we used it all before finishing. We do as much work as we can with the materials we have, and if there is still time after we use everything we do cleanup work and prepare for the next day by getting stones ready that fit into spaces in the top of the wall.

Today we finished the section of wall that we didn't do yesterday, and then moved on to the right side of the wall of the apse itself. This section has more of the large stones along the edge remaining, so we are only filling in between them. One thing I find interesting and somewhat controversial is that if there are stones already in place that are significantly higher than the level of the coping, the stones are removed and smaller ones put in its place. I'm not sure if this is an aesthetic or safety decision, but the removal of authentic and original material during the conservation process always involves tough decisions.

Something else I've noticed is that the work we did yesterday and today is not as good as the work we did on Tuesday. Our coping of the wall on Tuesday was more level and consistent, while our work since hasn't been done completely correctly, isn't level and has more holes. Whatever the reasons for the differences in the work, I'm still learning and getting to actually do things. Over the last three days I have been given more and more independence in what I do. Tuesday all I really did was watch and refill buckets of mortar, but today I did a lot of the mortar cleaning and smoothing, as well as throwing the dirt onto the wet mortar. At the very end I also did the entire process for a small area of the wall that had been forgotten and needed to be finished before we left. It feels good to be trusted to do the work without direct supervision.

After the work day was over I had a meeting with people from the Jewish Agency office in Bet She'an that are involved in maintaining the partnership between Bet She'an and Cleveland. We went to lunch and talked about Saving the Stones, my work, and what I am interested in doing while I'm here. They seem to be very interested in helping me get comfortable here and I am looking forward to being involved with them.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

New week, new work

Welcome back to my fabulous blog everyone! I hope you are ready to hear about the work I have done and will be doing this week, because I'm ready to tell it. It might be a little short, but enjoy! In other news, how about that World Cup? I've been trying to watch as many of the matches as I can, but because of the time difference they are usually really late and it's hard for me to stay up watching and wake up early for work. Spain and Portugal's crushing defeats, Argentina, Italy and the US's close victories. I can't wait to see more!

There is one important thing I would like to mention. Due to political and secrecy concerns I am unable to talk about or show the location and nature of my work for the past week. I have removed all of these details from my previous blog posts and cannot elaborate further. Sorry for any inconveniences! Sunday and Monday were the last days at my previous site. These days consisted of cleaning up the site, removing some of the scaffolding and artificial construction, and gathering up all the tools and equipment.

Today we (the team I was working with and will continue to work with) started working at a new location. Now we are doing conservation work on a 3rd century synagogue in a kibbutz near Bet She'an. The site is inclosed in a makeshift building to protect it from the elements and human hazards. The synagogue has some pretty cool mosaics, but we're not working on them. Today we did consolidation and covering of one part of the wall of the building, called coping. Capping the top of a wall helps give it stability as well as help protect it from erosion.

The process of coping starts off with cleaning and wetting the top of a section of the wall. Then lots of mortar is put on the surface. Stones are then placed into the mortar, and excess mortar is removed. The mortar on the edges around the stones are cleaned and smoothed to make it look good, and finally dirt is thrown onto the mortar to make it look older and more natural. The stones we used were all original stones found at the site that had been removed either during the excavation or other conservation works. We added one course of stones to the top of the original wall, making it a fairly flat surface. First we put large stones on the border of the wall, then the opposite side. Finally we filled in between these two lines with smaller stones.

Nothing else is new with me here in Bet She'an. The apartment is still wonderful, and I am enjoying my work. Soon I hope to make connections with the municipality and the Jewish Federation Partnership from Bet She'an's twin city of Cleveland and get more involved in the community while I am here.

Friday, June 13, 2014

End of the Week at Bet She'an

Happy Friday everyone! My first week here at Bet She'an was fun and exciting. The work I've been doing has been interesting and I am enjoying it a lot.

Tuesday I continued working. I filled in holes and cracks with lime mortar. I didn't make quite as much progress as on Monday, but that was due to the way in which the work was done. Holes are easy enough to fill. You wet them, slap mortar everywhere, stick in a big rock to fill most of the hole, and then fill the rest of it with more mortar. Cracks, however, are much harder to fill. They are usually smaller than holes, but it's harder to put the mortar in them. One of the cracks I had to fill was only a few millimeters wide, just big enough for me to be able to stick my dental tool in. Since it was so thin I couldn't tell how deep it went, so I didn't know how much mortar I would need. It was incredibly difficult to put the mortar in the crack. I had to push small amounts in with the dental tool, trying not to drop any. It was a very slow process to feed in enough mortar to completely fill the crack.


Tuesday was also one of the other worker's birthday. He brought bourekas (pastries filled with cheese or potato), vegetables and brandy for a little celebration during brunch. Now is a good time to give a little more information about the team I'm working with. Besides me, there are three other workers: Ilan, from Israel, Octavian from Romania, and Alexander from Russia. It was Alexander's birthday. Everyone speaks some level of Hebrew so we are able to communicate well enough. Our boss, Ilan (different from the Ilan on the team) comes to check on us for an hour or two every day to make sure we know what to do and that our work is good. So far he's been happy with the work that I've done. The guys are funny, laid-back, and typical Israeli workers.

Wednesday my job was to fill in the holes made to put grouting pipes in to fill the interior with liquid mortar. The end of the project is coming and all the grouting has finished, so the holes left by the pipes have to be filled in. I rolled mortar into thin cylinders and stuffed them into the holes as far back as they would go to fill any remaining spaces within the stones. Thursday was mostly spent removing the wooden scaffolding. The World Cup started last night, and I tried to stay up to watch the first match (Brazil vs. Croatia), but I fell asleep before half time. Hopefully I won't be so tired to watch some of the other games.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Starting to Work

Hey there everyone reading this. Sorry it's been a while since I posted last. I wanted to wait to make it a substantial post so as not to bore you. I know, being in Israel for five months can't possibly be boring, but reading an entire blog post describing the food and souvenir stands I walk past would get repetitive and tiresome. So here is a post that covers all of what I did last week as well as what I did yesterday and today.

I will start with last Sunday, June 1st. Bronwyn and I (Melissa went to work with Shay) met Alison and Kamil at the Eretz Israel Museum in Tel Aviv. The museum is built on Tel Kasilah, one of several ancient tels on the Yarkon River that date back to the Bronze Age. The section of the ancient site that has been excavated and is still visible dates to the Philistines. We were given a tour of the ruins by the head archaeological inspector of  Tel Aviv. After our tour we had time to explore the rest of the museum on our own. The layout of the museum is unlike others in that the different exhibits are each housed in their own building spread out over the entire grounds. I went into the coin, glass, ceramics, copper, and modern art buildings. The coin exhibit displayed methods of payment since before coins were minted right up to modern shekels. The glass building explained the history of glass-making using finds from the country. The ceramics building showed pottery vessels and other ceramic objects. The copper building focused on the methods of copper mining used in ancient times, showcasing finds from the mines of Timna in southern Israel. The modern art building, which was the least interesting to me but still worth looking through, displayed the use of art to showcase culture through advertisements. Exploring the museum was interesting and time consuming, a day well-spent.

Monday we went with Shelley to Rehovot to visit a glass conservator and see his studio. He was trained in stained-glass conservation in Belgium but makes his living creating new pieces by commission. Currently he is working with the companies at the French Hospital and the W Hotel in Jaffa (that we visited the week before) to restore and conserve the stained-glass windows of the church there. He showed us how he works and explained to us the different methods that go into conserving stained-glass from the 1800s. After the windows are removed, the glass panes are removed from their lead frames, and the lead is discarded. Then the glass is cleaned.If any pieces are broken they are glued back together using a special reversible glue. Then the panes are slowly put back together using new lead (called re-leading). A putty is inserted into the lead to fill the holes and keep the glass from moving before the lead is soldered shut. The church has more than twenty windows, only half of which have survived. Part of the job includes recreating the missing windows. When the entire project will be completed in a couple of years, the windows will be placed back in their spots in the walls. They are put back last so that they will not be in danger from any other work that would be done, like painting. Seeing the stained-glass and learning how the windows from the French Hospital was really interesting, especially since we had been to the church and seen the site ourselves.

The rest of the week (Tuesday through Friday) we were free to do what we wished. I spent the majority of the time either relaxing on the beach or walking through the streets and the flea market. Since I'm not sure what free time I will have the rest of my time here, I used those days also to buy a few gifts and souvenirs. On Friday I went to my family in Bet Shemesh for Shabbat.

Yesterday (Sunday) I met Ornit and Alison in Afula and we went to Bet She'an to start the next section of my practicum, working with the conservation team at the National Park. We first went to the apartment where I will be staying. I have one room with a bathroom, and an attached kitchen, with the laundry room attached to the kitchen. The room is big, the bed is nice, and I also have an extra bed and a couch. If anyone wants to come and visit, I have a great place for you to stay! After I got settled in the apartment we met with Ilan, the boss, and decided on what I would be working on. After our meeting with Ilan I returned to the apartment, relaxed, and then went on a walk to better acquaint myself with this part of the city.

Today I began my work. The work was very similar to what we did in Akko and the ancient synagogue at Meron, so I was able to jump right in. I filled in holes in between stones with lime mortar We worked from about 7:30am until 1pm, with coffee and lunch breaks. After we finished for the day they dropped me back at the apartment, and I relaxed.

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Week 1 of the Practicum

Hello again! It's been a while since I last made a post, so I thought I would write one today. I am in Tel Aviv with Melissa and Bronwyn. Creighton is back home in Canada, Laurine is in Jerusalem and Noah is in Akko. I will be here in Tel Aviv until probably next Sunday, at the latest. After that I will go to Beit She'an.

We were supposed to meet at the French Hospital in Jaffa to get introduced to our work site Tuesday morning, so we decided to go down Monday and stay the night. We stayed at the Overstay Hostel, the same one I stayed at over Passover, and then went out to explore the area. While we were out we got a call saying that we were no longer able to work at the French Hospital, so they were changing our plans and would let us know Tuesday morning. This last-minute change of plans caught us off-guard, so we decided to have a "crazy" night. First we ate a barbecue dinner at an American-style barbecue restaurant we found in the Jaffa Flea Market and drank some wine. When we got back to the hostel we bought a bottle of vodka and partied on the roof of the hostel. We got quite drunk, but had a good time.

Tuesday morning we went to the hostel we were staying at for the next two weeks. We met Alison there who got us situated. We then went on a tour of the French Hospital with the head of the company that we were supposed to be working with. We worked with him previously in Akko learning masonry. The tour was interesting. The hospital was built in the mid-19th century on a site that had crusader ruins as well. We saw the church as well as some of the corridors, and learned what they were doing to conserve and renovate the building. The building is being transformed into an apartment and hotel complex, so it needs a lot of modern renovation. The church is being transformed into a ballroom-type area, to suite its already fancy nature. The tour finished up our day Tuesday.

Wednesday we started with a tour of Jaffa given by the head archaeologist of the Tel Aviv area. He focused his tour on the history of Jaffa since the middle of the Ottoman Period, and it was very interesting. He is currently directly overseeing two excavation sites in Jaffa, one in a French School near the French Hospital and another in the "Greek Market," and let us into the French School to show us what he was doing. After we left the French School we traveled to Lod to visit Shay Farkash's studio. The studio is where they do their work if they can't do it on site. It also seems to be Shay's personal garage. There are old signs, posters, doors and other knick knacks. Some of the stuff he had was pretty cool. After our tour of the studio we headed back to Jaffa and finished the day.

That was the last of my structured time here so far. Thursday Melissa went to work with Shay, but there wasn't enough work for Bronwyn or me to join her. These last three days I've been wandering around. Walked through the Carmel market in Tel Aviv, walked along the beach promenade, walked through Old Jaffa. Today I spent most of the day lying on one of the beaches in Tel Aviv. Next week I'll post what I do. There won't be much work since Tuesday and Wednesday the country is off for the holiday of Shavuot.

Until next time!

Friday, May 23, 2014

Concluding Week

Well, this is it! The last week of the group program. Next week starts our individual practicum. This was our last week all together, and now we are dispersed.

Sunday morning we did a run-through of our final presentations before the official ones so that we could get feedback and fix things. Then we had the rest of the day off until the afternoon when the last Hebrew lesson was scheduled. Monday we had an agricultural tour of the Western Galilee with an archaeologist who works closely with the farmers. He knows everyone that lives and works on the farms, so he was a good tour guide to talk about life out there. We went to several different farms, learned about the produce, and then were given bags of vegetables to take home. We ended up with a bag of cucumbers, tomatoes, zuccini, and a head of lettuce each, plus a communal bag of potatoes. It was way too much for the last days of the program, and even after giving some of it away as a gift and using a lot for salads, a good portion will still go bad. We also had an extravagant lunch where we didn't finish half the food on the table. Everyone was very welcoming and hospitable. We had a lot of fun.

Tuesday was the "official" final day, the day we gave our presentations at the center. We presented to several of the experts we had worked with during our stay in Akko, as well as heads of areas in the Conservation Department. The presentations went well. They were very informal and short. I was expecting them to be formal, final presentations that were supposed to be sophisticated and professional, but they weren't. They were quick, sometimes humorous, and somewhat unprofessional. They weren't meant to be final presentations, but summaries of what we had done. After the presentations we each received a certificate of completion, and then ate a nice lunch. After lunch we filled out a long evaluation of the program, and then went home.

Wednesday we did one last thing with the program. We went to Tzippori and got a tour of the archaeological park there. First we met Ornit, who lives on the moshav, at a small spring at the entrance to the moshav. Then we went to her house and had a small breakfast. After our respite we went to Al Alim, a large herb garden in the moshav. We got a brief tour of their fields and processing facilities. After the gardens we went to a goat farm and had a cheese tasting. The cheeses were flavorful and delicious. A little bit after 12pm we went to the archaeological park and got a tour with one of the head archaeologists in the area. We saw the main attractions and talked about the conservation work that had been done. We saw the ancient synagogue with its famous zodiac mosaic, the theater, and mosaics in several public buildings. Three of their most famous mosaics are one of Orpheus playing his lyre, scenes of Dionysus beating Herakles at a drinking contest, and a depiction of the Nile River and the wilderness around it. In addition to learning the history of the site and the mosaics we learned about the different conservation techniques that have been done at the site. Some of the mosaics have been put back together to partially complete missing elements, while others were consolidated and strengthened without adding any new tiles. It was a very interesting tour, as well as a very interesting site. When we were done at the archaeological park we went back to Ornit's house and ate lunch before heading back to Akko.

That's it! The program is finished. Creighton leaves to return to Canada tomorrow so she and the other girls went to Tel Aviv today for a last hurrah. I have to stay in Akko to pick up some checks for the places at which we will be staying during the practicum. I will spend the rest of the weekend uploading pictures and getting ready to leave. My next post will come from Tel Aviv during the first part of the practicum.

Friday, May 16, 2014

Italian Lecture Week

Welcome back! The end of the 3-month program is in sight. This week was the last week where we learned things. This post is going to be a little short, since we didn't really do much this week. Next week we have a few fun tours and then give our final presentations. One more blog post before the practicum starts, but I will also make new posts during my practicum. I will continue writing for as long as I'm in Israel, so you won't miss a week!

This week was pretty uneventful. Saturday there was a parade of church groups playing instruments that went down the road outside our apartment. It was neat watching them go by from our balcony. Other than that we got back to work Sunday morning. This week the International Conservation Center was hosting an Italian professor from Rome who was giving a seminar about the history of conservation in Europe since the Renaissance, and we attended the lectures. The lectures were very long and sometimes my attention drifted, but the information was generally interesting. He separated the lectures by country, talking about different approaches to conservation and reconstruction in Italy, France, Germany, and England. He spent a long time talking about individuals who had opinions about conservation and reconstruction, and read lengthy quotes by them about the subject. This part was a little boring for me. He also talked about different styles of conservation since the Second World War, what the reasoning and methods behind them were, and a few case studies of conservation projects. These talks were more interesting. These lectures were given Sunday, Monday and Tuesday.

Tuesday we also had individual meetings with the staff to discuss more details about our practicum projects. I will be starting the practicum working at the W Hotel in Jaffa for two weeks. Then, depending on external factors, I might work with a team going to Banias and work there for another three weeks or so. After that project I will be joining the conservation team that does maintenance work at the archaeological site in Beit She'an for the remainder of the practicum. If all goes well, I should be doing some very interesting work! I hope everything works out.

The rest of the week was devoted to working on creating our final presentations. Each of us chose a location that we worked at and will present on the conservation methods that we learned and used at the site. My presentation will be about the methods used to conserve mosaics, plaster, and marble that we did at Caesarea and Beit She'an.

That's all we did this week. Stay tuned next week to read about the last days of the project!

Friday, May 9, 2014

Painting Tel Aviv

Another week is done, and it is time for a new blog post. This is the end of week 12. The educational part of the program is almost done, we only have two more weeks left before the practicum begins! It feels like the last three months have gone by really fast, and very soon we will be splitting up to go work on our own projects. But until that happens, we are still working together, and you will get to hear about our adventures.

I ended my last post with us arriving in Tel Aviv and getting set up with our host families. We were split up into four houses, Noah and I together, Bronwyn and Creighton together, Laurine with her brother, and Melissa in another home. We stayed with a woman and her army-age daughter in an apartment in Neve Avivim, a neighborhood of Ramat Aviv in northern Tel Aviv. Everyone else stayed around Neve Tzedek, so we were far from everyone else. Being so far from the center of the city and from the rest of the group made doing anything after hours nearly impossible. Cabs were expensive, and we had to pay for transportation ourselves. Buses were available, but unreliable. Several times we waited for a bus for more than a half-hour after it was supposed to come. Everything else about our accommodations was good. The family was friendly and the apartment was nice. Saturday was a lazy day. I walked around northern Ramat Aviv, and then went to the beach and hung out there for the afternoon.

Sunday we got to work. Shay Farkash, the man in charge, split us up to do different jobs. Noah and I started cleaning the backs of removed wall paintings, and the girls worked on cleaning and exposing a green snake stencil in different parts of the room. After we were done cleaning the backs of the paintings they put Noah and I to work painting new stencil around the room, Noah on once side and me on the other. They had created a stencil guide by tracing what they found on the walls so that it was identical to and would line up with what remained. With help from Shay's team, we learned how to paint stencils onto the wall. We got about a third of our walls stenciled before the day was done. That evening began Yom HaZikaron, Israel Memorial Day, and there was a MASA memorial service at Latrun. While it was a decent service, I would have preferred to have gone to one that was more Israeli and less "American". The memorial was attended entirely by MASA participants, which meant hundreds of mostly religious American teenagers doing extended MASA courses that all new each other. There were of course groups from other countries, but it was mostly Americans. The ceremony itself was also somewhat strange, with several interruptions made for people to start singing songs that I did not understand their connection. Whatever. It wasn't my cup of tea.


Monday at work we switched our stations so that we could all get experience doing the different jobs. Laurine and Melissa went to paint the snake stencil and I cleaned and revealed the old one. The walls had several different layers of paint, each with its own stencil design. The area I was working on had three stencil designs, the snake, a light blue design, and a brown one, and I had to leave them all while cleaning around them. That meant that parts of the snake that were underneath the newer designs remained hidden. The cleaning was a long, slow, and delicate process. Using a scalpel you had to remove each layer of paint without destroying what was beneath it. Several issues made this very difficult. One, some of the paint layers were extremely thin and it was easy to go too deep and remove too much paint. Other places the paint was really hard and didn't come off easily. Adding too much force could damage the paint underneath. Also, the snake was on a light beige background, and a layer of white paint was directly above this. The white blended in with the beige, making it difficult to tell the difference between the layers. The work required a lot of patience. I really enjoyed it though. Monday night began Yom HaAtzma'ut, Israel Independence Day, so we got off work early. That night I went to a party on a rooftop in central Tel Aviv to celebrate.


Tuesday we had the day off for Yom HaAtzma'ut. I went walking through central Tel Aviv, crashed a few open parties to celebrate and eat, and then went to the beach. The late afternoon became very windy, so I headed home early. Wednesday I resumed revealing the different layers of stencils. I was in a different place on the wall, but the process and results were exactly the same. This location was a little more difficult because it was in a corner, but I think I managed fairly well. Thursday, guess what I did? If you said, "more cleaning", you're right! I was on another wall, but I was doing the same thing. This area was significantly more difficult because there was a hard layer of green cement-plaster over everything. It was extremely difficult to remove this layer, and when you could, it usually took everything beneath it off as well. We tried several different methods for removing the green layer, including light hammering, applying a vinegar solution, and adding an epoxy mortar that was supposed to bond with the upper layers making them easier to remove. Nothing really worked, but I found that the easiest way to remove the cement was to add the epoxy, let it sit for a few minutes, and then use the hammering technique. It wasn't perfect and I destroyed plenty of the snake motif, but it was really only way we were able to work. We were also running out of time, so as long as I revealed some parts of it they were happy. That night we went out for long-overdue celebrations for Laurine's birthday. We went to an anglo bar near the beach that is known for its Tex-Mex menu, and then we went to the Max Brenner chocolate restaurant for dessert. We ate and drank way too much, but it was a lot of fun.

Today (Friday) was our last day in Tel Aviv. We only had half the day to work before the bus came to pick us up, and even that was shortened because there was going to be a performance put on in the room before lunch. I started by (you guessed it) cleaning the wall. We couldn't finish the entire area before we had to clean up for the performance, though. Then we all moved to the hallway and did some work on creating stencils that Shay's team would use for other jobs they had. I was working with a stencil that showed a scene of two men leading camels near the pyramids. The design wasn't complicated, but it had several layers that needed to be drawn and cut separately. I was only able to get through cutting half of one of the layers before we had to clean up and get ready to leave. The bus came, we packed up our luggage, and then drove back to Akko.

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Holed-up on Masada

Hello everyone! Sorry for my long hiatus, but this past week we were at Masada and there was no internet connection. Therefore I could not write any blog posts. So I will get you all up to date with this post. It's going to be a very long one. Everybody ready?

We will start with last Sunday. It was less than a week ago, but it feels like it has been a very, very long time. We didn't do any work on Sunday, and were still in Akko. We presented the information and work for the conservation reports that we had prepared about each of our sections in the International Conservation Center's courtyard. It was a quick presentation where we talked about the condition of our area and the conservation that needed to be done to preserve it. My section was an area of wall underneath the façade of a vaulted archway. The wall had extensive water damage and some of the stones needed replacing. A lot of the wall was missing the mortar between the stones, and large gaps were present. The façade of the vaulted arch had relatively little damage, and only needed a little mortar in between the stones to fix it up. The rest of the wall needed a lot more work. Ultimately the drainage of the water coming from above would need to be addressed so as to prevent further erosion. After our presentations the instructor for our work in Tel Aviv, Shay Farkash, came and presented information about the wall painting stencils we would be restoring. Then we gathered kitchen materials from the ICC's storage that we would need at Masada. The day ended with Hebrew lessons (for everyone else) while I started to prepare dinner. At the end of the lesson there was a mini surprise party for Laurine, who's birthday was the next day. We couldn't really celebrate on her birthday because it was Yom HaShoah, Holocaust Remembrance Day.


Monday morning we left. We stopped at a rest stop north of Tel Aviv when the siren went off for the moment of silence for Yom HaShoah. After we continued on to Yad VaShem in Jerusalem. There we met with a child survivor who told us his story of how he had been given to a Dutch family so he could be saved. Unlike the stories of survivors who had actually been in the camps, his story mostly focused on his life after the war and when he made aliyah to Israel. It was an interesting story, but it didn't carry the same emotion in it like stories of survival in the camps. I kind of feel bad saying that, but it's true. We then ate lunch, and then had a tour of the memorial. After we went through the memorial we left for Masada. The drive to Masada was long and boring. The scenery was okay, but we went through the center of the country instead of along the Dead Sea and through the desert. Apparently there was a miscommunication with the driver and we took the long way We got to our 'house' on the west side of Masada at the base of the Roman Ramp a little later than expected, but that was no problem. We did a little exploring of our surroundings and then called it a day.

Tuesday we started our work at Masada, and worked there through Thursday. These three days every morning we had to hike up the Roman Ramp. It was tough but I managed! Tuesday we had a brief tour of Masada and saw the different places where they were doing conservation work. They recently received a donation and are now able to conserve some frescoes that had been removed from the commandant's residence on the northeast side of the mountain. We were supposed to learn about fresco preservation and then help this project. After the tour and lunch we went to the onsite fresco lab that was built into one of the rooms on the south side of the mountain. The leaders of the program are two Italian conservators, and they explained the conservation program and what they were doing to conserve the frescoes. Then we got to fill in some of the holes in the frescoes with plaster. After the work day was done we visited the northern palace before heading back down. The Masada Sound and Light Show is held every Tuesday and Thursday, and we were given tickets to go see it that night. The show surprised me by focusing mostly on the story of Masada, with lights added to it to highlight locations. Most sound and light shows that I have attended in the past were more like lights dancing on the site to music, but this show was a narrated storytelling as lights shown on different places on the mountain. It was very corny and played up, but still entertaining.



Wednesday we went back up the mountain, expecting a full day of work with the frescoes. However this is not what happened. Apparently the conservators had worked too fast over the past weeks and there was no longer any work for us to do with the frescoes. They were at a stage where the work was too sensitive and important for interns to do. Instead we did a lot of sitting around while they tried to find work for us to do. Also the person that was supposed to be in charge of us didn't come to work. We first helped the conservators move the frescoes from the lab to the room where they came from so that the plaster that was on the walls could be measured. The amount of plaster needed to fit the size of the frescoes. After taking the frescoes back to the lab Noah went to work mixing mortar, I was sent to sweep some rooms of dust, Laurine was put in the commandant's room applying a layer of plaster where the frescoes were going to be put, and the other girls went to clean mosaics in the western palace. After they had enough mortar for the day Noah joined me in sweeping. It was not the work we had in mind. We did this work until lunchtime. After lunch Noah and Laurine went and joined the others cleaning the mosaics. I started working on filling holes in plaster on the wall outside the commandant's room. This is what we did until the end of the work day.

Thursday started out much the same way as Wednesday. We arrived ready to work long before there was work for us. Everyone sat around the National Park's office waiting to be given work. I went back to work on the plaster outside the commandant's room, and took Noah with me so that some of us were at least working. Eventually the girls were given work similar to mine on a different wall near the office and cable car. After lunch we were able to get some work with frescoes. There were some frescoes that were removed from an unknown location, and they said we could work with them since they weren't going to be shown to the public. The Italian conservators taught us the process of cleaning the surface of the frescoes using water and different chemicals. It was good to be working with frescoes, even if it wasn't the frescoes we were originally supposed to be working on. Since Thursday was our last day at Masada, after work I did a little more exploring of places that I hadn't seen, such as parts of the western palace and the cisterns at the bottom of the Roman Ramp.


Our time working at Masada was rather disappointing. We spent a good deal of time sitting around waiting and doing nothing instead of working. The person that was in charge of our work wasn't there, which meant other people that weren't prepared had to work with us, but they didn't know what we were supposed to do. Because the work that we were supposed to do had already been done we ended up doing other jobs that were less exciting and important. There was a lack of communication that prevented us from doing any real work. Finally, we were in the desert, which brought it's own difficulties that we had to cope with.

Friday morning we got on the bus and drove to Tel Aviv. We went straight to Neve Schechter, a Jewish culture center in Neve Tzedek housed in the Cafe Lorenz building, an old German Templar house. We met with Shay Farkash, our teacher for the week, who gave us a short introduction/tour of the building and the neighborhood. Then we went to Sarona, the old German Templar colony outside Jaffa. We ate lunch there and had a tour of the village. After the tour we split up to settle into the houses we were staying at during our week in Tel Aviv.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

A New Week of Working

Hello to all my readers. I hope your week is going well. My work week is now finished, which means it is time for a new blog post! These last three days have been really busy, so get ready! Also, I have uploaded new pictures to Facebook, so be sure to check them out.

Tuesday we learned about stone masonry. An expert came to the Conservation Center and taught us the techniques of sculpting stone blocks. We worked with tools on large blocks that they provided. We each got a block and learned the process of planning and constructing an arch. By the end we each had sculpted a block of the arch, and then put it all together to make the arch in the courtyard. The arch wasn't perfect but it stood, which is the important thing!



On Wednesday we went to a blacksmith in Yoqne'am to learn about metalsmithing. The blacksmith taught us how to shape iron in the furnace. We started by learning how to turn a round rod square, and then back to round. Then we tapered the end to different lengths, and then cut it. Then we moved on to making nails, which were more difficult. We finished by learning a little artwork, creating leaves that could be hung from a keychain. It was really cool working with the iron, anvil and tools and creating metal pieces. Even though some of us got a little burned, we all had fun. By the end we had definitely improved our metalsmithing skills


Today (Thursday) we woke up really early to head to Bet She'an, where we worked on conserving a mosaic floor. The work was very similar to what we did in Caesarea, but the area was smaller so we were able to finish a lot more. The mosaic had design on it, and part of the work was putting the tesserae back where they belonged to fill in the missing parts of the mosaic. Where we knew what the design was we recreated it, but if there were large gaps we did not add anything. After the work was done we took a short tour of the site, but did not go up onto the tel. By this time the temperature was around 40 degrees (over 100 degrees Fahrenheit), so we were okay with not spending a long time in the sun. We ended with some ice cream in the shade at the visitors center and gift shop.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Welcome Back!

Welcome back to my blog everyone. Passover vacation is now over, and I had a wonderful time. I went to my cousins' for the beginning of break and the Seder. Most of the time was spent cleaning, eating, and resting, but on Wednesday we went to the beach in Ashkelon. It was a beautiful day, the Sun was hot, the sand smooth, and the water cold. The beach was in a park that also had a lot of archaeological stuff, so I spent some time looking at the ruins as well. On Thursday I left my cousins' house and headed to Tel Aviv to do some tourist stuff.

Thursday evening I walked around the neighborhood where my hostel was, but there wasn't much happening. The hostel was not in the center of the city where all the tourists usually go, but farther south in a quieter area and closer to Jaffa. I also spent some time that night hanging out with the other guests on the roof. Most everyone was drinking beer, but I couldn't join them because of Passover. On Friday I went on the Free Tour of Jaffa. Like all tours it was heavily oriented to ignorant tourists and the like, but the tour guide himself was entertaining and very knowledgeable about other things in addition to the history and tourist attractions of Jaffa. For example, when he talked about the archaeology taking place in the town he genuinely seemed to know proper archaeological methods. He also added in some humor to the tour, which is always a plus. After the tour I did some more exploring of Jaffa, walked along the promenade next to the beaches, and then hung out at the hostel. The hostel also prepared a Shabbat meal, so the dinner was better than going out and trying to find somewhere that was kosher for Pesach.

Saturday I spent most of the day at the beach. The weather wasn't perfect, but it was comfortable. It was windy and overcast, and at one point it very lightly rained. I still had fun lying on the sand and wading in the water. That night I again hung out on the roof of the hostel. There was a group of Indians that were staying, and I learned that they were a contingent of officers from the Indian army that were serving in the United Nations peacekeeping taskforce in the Golan Heights. They had a short vacation, which is why they weren't working. One of them joined the group I was hanging out with and we talked for a long time. It was really cool and interesting to learn his background and history, and about the job that he does in the Golan.

Sunday I left Tel Aviv and headed back to Akko. I met one of the other participants on the train, so the ride wasn't completely boring. We had Monday off as well since it was still holiday, so the resting continued. Stay tuned at the end of the week for my post about what we did once work started up again!

Friday, April 11, 2014

Done for a Week

Hello everyone! The week is over, and now begins our break for Passover. We have all of next week off, coming back on Tuesday the 22nd. It should be a nice break from the early mornings and the hard work.

The end of the past week was dedicated to stone material and conservation. We had lectures Tuesday and Thursday with a workshop in the Hospitaller Fortress on Wednesday. The lecture started by discussing the different types of rock (igneous, metamorphic, sedimentary) and then went into their properties and uses in building construction. Then we discussed the types of problems that can affect stone walls, and the different methods of conservation for the different problems. We discussed a lot about the issues of water and salts, since these are the major problems on the coast that cause deterioration of the stone. We also discussed the problems of prior conservation attempts and the deterioration and destruction that older methods can cause when the materials are not understood. While part of the lecture was a repeat of what we have learned before, it also went more in depth and gave us a better understanding of the problems that face conservation of stone.

The workshop in the Hospitaller Fortress involved mostly cleaning stone objects. We did power washing, cleaning with scalpels and brushes, and cleaning with an ammonium bicarbonate poultice. The ammonium bicarbonate is a white and blobby material that we applied to the surface so it could clean the ash and dirt off the surface of the objects. As it dries it kind of looks like salt crystallization. We were stationed in the courtyard outside the entrance to the Hospitaller Fortress, which meant we were again in the perfect spot to be interrupted by tourists. The most frequent question we got was if the objects we were working on were from the sea, since the ammonium bicarbonate poultice looked like salt encrustation. After lunch there was less to do with the objects that were being cleaned, so they sent me into the inner courtyard to clean the columns and trebuchet balls in the courtyard using a power washer. It wasn't exactly the type of work that I expected to do in the workshop, but it was work that needed to be done and it gave us experience working with those materials.

Our Local Culture for the week was visiting the Student Village in the old city. The student village is an area where university students live while they study, while also doing community work in the city. There are fourteen student villages around the Negev and the Galilee, and they are pegged as the new kibbutzim.

I am writing this blog post from the train, and it is almost my stop. I will post again either later in the week or when I am back in Akko. Everyone have a good weekend and a good Passover!

Monday, April 7, 2014

Plaster and Marble

Happy week everybody! This week is the last week before Passover break.We are starting to really think about what we want to do for our two-month practicum, as well as being really busy with work during the day and stuff we have to do on our own. Here is a look at what we did yesterday and today.

Yesterday and today we got up early to head to Caesarea to do more work. Yesterday we started with a proper tour of the site. We also went to the newer hippodrome out away from the park which most tourists don't realize exists. It has not been excavated, but the cylinder-shape of the structure is devoid of trees, making it visible. In the center of it is an obelisk that has been reconstructed and set up on a podium. After the tour we went to work. We learned about plaster conservation and then each got a section of wall to fill in the holes and reinforce the original plaster. We had to leave the site early so we could get back to Akko for Hebrew lesson. Since I don't go to the lessons I had time to work on the "homework" we had to do. Last week we were assigned areas of the courtyard in the International Conservation Center to document, analyze and write the condition assessment and conservation report. I needed more photos of my wall, so I used the time to document everything I needed.

Today we were back in Caesarea, this time working on marble conservation in the theater. We were right on the orchestra floor with a shade tarp, which meant we were in the perfect place to ruin tourists' photos of the theater. Throughout the day people came up to us asking about our work. Marble conservation entailed filling the cracks with a marble powder mortar that was mixed to match the color of the individual blocks of marble. We each worked on an area and mixed our own mortar so it matched the color of our area. After we finished working we spent some time on the beach. Lying on the sand and relaxing in the sun was a nice and refreshing way to end the day.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Documentation Week Part 2

Here is the post for the second half of documentation week, covering Wednesday and Thursday. Sorry for it being a bit short and a bit late.

Wednesday we were supposed to have a lecture about architectural documentation and how to properly measure areas for documentation. Instead we had a very long lecture mostly focused on mosaics, wall paintings and frescoes. The lecturer talked to us about anything and everything that came to his mind that he thought was important for conservators to know. He spent a great deal of time trying to explain chemical formulas and materials used in conservation of different types of building materials and when they are used. The lecture felt very erratic and scattered. He would be talking about mosaic conservation, then discuss the methods for removing fungus, start talking briefly about wall paintings, and then go back to mosaics. The last five minutes of the lecture were spent talking about measuring and recording. While all of the information was useful, it was presented in a very irregular way that made it very difficult to understand, not even taking into consideration the language difficulties. It was not my favorite lecture. After the lecture we went into the courtyard and applied what (little) we learned about measuring to our small sections. Then we had a lecture and tour by the director of the conservation department of the Israel Antiquities Authority. We toured the Hospitaller Fortress again, focusing on the methods of conservation used and the reasons behind their use.

On Thursday we were back in Khan esh-Shawarda working on our conservation plans. We applied what we had learned during the week to what we had worked on when we were first at the khan. We took more "professional" photographs and did a more detailed documentation of our area. After working at the khan we had our local culture session of the week. We went to a children's welfare club run by an urban kibbutz in Akko where we learned about the kibbutz, their history and mission, and the different programs they run in the city. It was really interesting to learn how a kibbutz can function inside of a city.

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Documentation Week Part 1

Happy Week 7 everyone! Here is my mid-week blog post to cover everything we've done since Sunday. It hasn't been a tremendously busy week, but we are still working. People have been asking me about the weather lately, so I'll give a brief description of how it is here in Akko. The mornings are usually windy and cool, about 50-60 degrees. Often there are clouds. By the late morning/early afternoon the temperature has gone up to the upper 60s or low 70s, depending on the amount of sunlight. It is still windy, meaning in the shade it can feel cool. About once a week we get a rainstorm, usually overnight. It is very comfortable and like sitting on the balcony watching the waves. Anyway, back to what we did so far.

On Sunday we began really learning about the process of documentation and evaluation of conservation projects. We had a lecture discussing those topics and then did a local culture meeting in Akko at the Shop for Meaning, an arts store run by people with special needs. After our introduction to Shop for Meaning there was another Hebrew lesson, but I did not attend. I asked the staff and they said that it was meant for those who didn't know Hebrew, and that my level of understanding was beyond what they have had in the past. So they excused me from attending.

On Monday We started with another lecture about conservation plans and then started our own in the courtyard of the International Conservation Center. We each got a small area of the courtyard to document, record, analyze and evaluate. My section was a one-meter long and three-meter tall piece of wall in the corridor of the courtyard, as well as one-stone deep and halfway up the connected façade of the vault. I started by (and only had time for) drawing a rough sketch of my area and then measuring the dimensions of each stone as well as the dimensions of the entire area. We then had another lecture about structural engineering elements and issues of buildings. I personally wasn't that interested in the engineering side of the day, but some of the information was important to learn.

Today we learned about photography and photographic documentation. The beginning of the lecture began with covering the basics of photography and cameras, which was review for me. Having a grandfather very knowledgeable in photography and taken a photography class meant that I knew most of the information that the lecturer told us, but I did learn a few things. After the lecture we went back to the courtyard to get advice about how to photo-document our areas.

The rest of the week is also devoted to learning the process of documentation. Stay tuned for my next blog at the end of this week!

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Being a Tourist Attraction

It's been a few days, so I thought I would write another post to update you all on what happened the last two days of the week. I think my last post ended with Tuesday, so I will write about Wednesday and Thursday. The entire week we have been getting up really early and working all day. We had to wake up around 5am and didn't finish until around 5pm every day, so we all were really drained this weekend.

On Wednesday we were back in Caesarea doing more work on mosaics. We first set up a shade tarp and then began cleaning between the stones with dentist tools. We each cleaned an area of mosaics in this one room by digging between the tesserae (mosaic stone cubes) to remove dirt and old, weak mortar. Then we prepared a lime mortar that was liquid-based so that it would seep between the tesserae and fill the spaces. After letting the mortar dry for a short time we washed the tops of the tesserae to remove excess mortar, exposing the stones while leaving the mortar in between them to solidify the mosaic as a whole. While we were working groups of tourists would come up to us asking what we were doing. The shade tarp seemed like a magnet for the inquisitive. Like I have mentioned before, I always enjoy it when people come up to us asking about what we are doing. After we were finished working on the mosaics we met with the man in charge of conservation at Caesarea. He talked to us about the role of conservation and the conservator, and the ethics behind conservation methods.

On Thursday we were back at the ancient synagogue on Meron, continuing our work from Tuesday. We were joined by a photographer from the Israel Antiquities Authority who was working on a presentation about conservation at the site to improve publicity of the site and of what the IAA does. He photographed us while we worked. He also filmed one of us as a short interview talking about who we were, our program, and what we were working on. We had a lot to work on to finish filling our wall with stones and mortar. My side of the wall had a huge hole inside of it, and filling it took most of our time. In the end we were unable to completely finish the right side of it, but some of the others finished the left side and moved up to the top half of the wall. Near the end of our time at Meron Amit, the man in charge, gave us a brief lesson in removing graffiti from stone walls. There was some graffiti on a wall near the entrance to the synagogue, and he demonstrated to us how to remove it, as well as giving us a chance to do some of it ourselves. The process involves applying a special chemical to the painted area, letting it sit, and then washing it off with water with a pressure washer. The graffiti came off almost instantly and completely. It was really cool to watch and even cooler to do. We were lucky to have been there when they were working on it, since it wasn't originally part of the plan for our work.

Thursday night we went to Haifa for dinner to celebrate Melissa's birthday a little more. We went to a Japanese restaurant for sushi and then to a bar for a drink. The sushi was decent but nothing special. Everyone was so exhausted from the week's work that after one drink we decided we would head home. It was already too late to take the train, so I bargained with a taxi driver for a decent price to take us all back to the apartment. Friday some of us were supposed to go on a hike with another Masa group, but we were too tired and decided to sleep in instead. The weekend was another slow and lazy one as we all recouped from last week.

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Re-building Walls

Hello again. I'm on a roll, three posts in a row! This one is a little shorter, but still exciting. Today we went to the ancient Rashbi synagogue at Meron and started mortar conservation of a wall. The wall has lots of holes and almost no mortar, and could easily collapse. We cleaned the wall of vegetation and debris, mixed the lime mortar, collected rocks and fit them into the spaces, and applied the mortar to the holes in the wall where we put in the rocks. We were only able to finish a small portion of the wall, but we are going again on Thursday and should be able to finish it. We had to be extra careful doing work in the holes since they are prime locations for snakes, scorpions, and other hazardous creatures. We did find a scorpion, a fairly large one. When the end of the day came you could clearly see our progress in the wall, and (in my opinion) the places where we had done work looked like a professionally-conserved ancient wall. I am greatly looking forward to Thursday when we can finish the work and see the entire thing completely filled with mortar.

Can you find the differences between the first photo and the next two?




When we got back to Akko we had a(nother) tour of the old city, this time with the Chief Engineer who worked with the conservation teams in the city when all of the conservation work was done. He worked in the Hospitaller Fortress and many of the houses, and explained the conservation process from an engineering point of view. He talked about the different methods used in restoring the Citadel, as well as some of the Crusader and Ottoman architectural features that can be found throughout the city. While a lot of his tour was repetition from the other tours we have been given of Old Akko, some parts of it were new. One of the things that he told us that I found really interesting was that the southwestern part of the modern city is built on top of two-story Crusader ruins built of massive vaults. All of that area is filled with debris and sand underneath the modern houses and buildings, unexcavated and hidden from the public. I thought that was really cool. Other things he mentioned were small details about how buildings were constructed that people (including me) don't notice unless they are specifically told about it. Examples of that are the artificial entrances created in the Hospitaller Fortress to make it tourist-friendly are all cut in diagonals, or that most corners in the streets are cut to make rounding the corners easier. These were things that I had never realized or noticed until he brought our attention to them. Every time we have another tour of the city we learn new things, even when we think we won't.

Monday, March 24, 2014

Happy Birthday Melissa!

Here is another blog post. Not sure how, but I'm feeling up for writing another one immediately after writing the one yesterday. Who knows, maybe I'll write another one tomorrow? First, I want to wish Melissa (one of the participants/interns) a happy birthday today. This week we have very early mornings and late afternoons, so we were unable to truly party with her today. However, we were able to have a small celebration after dinner.

We started the day going to Haifa University to visit the Hecht Museum of Archaeology. This free museum is dedicated entirely to archaeology of Israel relating to the people of Israel. Almost all of their materials were found in Israel. It is similar in its goals to the Rockefeller Museum, but significantly better planned and executed. The museum looked new, well-kept, and was presented in an interesting way. It was really interesting to see their exhibit and compare it to what we saw at the Rockefeller. They also have a 2,400 year old shipwreck. After we were given a tour of the museum (the tour itself wasn't so interesting) the expert in waterlogged material conservation talked to us about the process of conserving, restoring and preserving waterlogged and marine material. He was the one who worked on the shipwreck and taught us everything there is to know about preserving marine archaeological material. We went into his lab where he does the conservation, and learned a lot from him. Then we headed back to Akko.

Back in Akko (after eating a quick lunch) we had another tour by the Israel Antiquities Authority, this time focusing on wood conservation around the city. Avner, the 'tour guide', did more than just talk about wood, though. He explained how different buildings had been constructed, repaired, and preserved over the last hundred years or so. We started in the Efendi Hotel, a gorgeous hotel inside a large Ottoman house. The entire inside was decorated with floral motifs made of wood carvings, most of which were originals from when it had been constructed. Of course it had been repaired and conserved, but a lot of it was original or modeled after the original. We then walked through other parts of Old Akko as Avner explained the conservation process of the wooden parts of the buildings. We walked into some of the buildings so he could show us examples of what he was explaining.It was really interesting to see that almost all of the buildings were constructed in the same way, had the same decorations, and were experiencing the same problems. The Efendi Hotel was one example that has been well conserved, but the decorations inside were the norm throughout the city. It would have been amazing to see the city two hundred years ago, when it was in much better condition.

As I mentioned in the beginning, today is Melissa's birthday. After dinner we made a semi-surprise celebration for her. Two of the girls prepared fondue for dessert and stuck candles in a watermelon. It was a nice and fun ending to a busy day.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

A New Week

Welcome back to my blog. I wanted to post again last week but I got busy and distracted. Sorry, again. I will bring us up to date from last Wednesday until today. Just going back to Tuesday briefly, the lecturer we were having on Wednesday and Thursday, Aliza, joined us in the apartment. She is from Jerusalem, so she had to stay the night Tuesday and Wednesday. Luckily we have the empty spare room.

Wednesday and Thursday Aliza taught us about mortars, plasters, and wall conservation. She told us about different types of mortars, what they are used for, and her preferences for how to restore and conserve a wall with mortar. We went on more walking tours of Akko looking at walls that had different stages of conservation. On Thursday we worked with actual mortars on a wall in the Conservation Center. We cleaned the wall, removed prior mortars, mixed new mortar and applied it to the wall. It was cool to work with mortars and to learn how to do repointing and mortar conservation. After working in the Center we went to the Tourist office to learn a little bit about their work in Old Akko. They are working with the local people to help them become self-sufficient and improve their situations. After the meeting we had another Hebrew lesson. I was given a few worksheets to fill out. They were easy, but it was a little more work than last time.

On Friday I went to Beit Shemesh to spend Shabbat with my family. I took the train to Tel Aviv where Uncle Steve picked me up after work. Shabbat was nice. Quiet and peaceful. All the cousins were there, as well as Tsachi's girlfriend and some of Noa's friends. Saturday before Mincha we went on a hike up to the monastery at Bet Gemal. The monastery and the surrounding land is owned by the Vatican, and there are the ruins of a 5th century church behind it with mosaics. After Shabbat was over I took the train back to Akko.

Today we had our weekly review in the morning, talking about what we had done over the past few weeks. We then drove to a place where we learned about woodworking. The two guys there run courses teaching woodworking, and they taught us some of the basics for how to use and shape wood for everyday use. They also talked a little about wood restoration and conservation. We then got a chance to each level a piece of wood with a wood plane. It was really nice to be doing hands-on work.

After the woodworking lesson was over we had another Hebrew lesson. I was reading stories out of a lesson book and answering the questions after. There was a little more that I didn't understand, but it was all vocabulary, while the book was focusing on grammar. I'm giving up hope of having a meaningful ulpan, and I may end up just reading the dictionary to learn the vocabulary.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Getting Caught Up

Hello everyone. Sorry for not posting for a while, I have been distracted and busy and haven't had the time or the internet connection to write a new blog post. So now I am going to get everyone caught up since last Wednesday. We have done quite a lot and I will try to talk about everything, but I might miss something.

Okay, starting with last Thursday, while we were still in Jerusalem. Thursday morning we went to the Rockefeller Museum again. We started with a tour and explanation of the archives. They hold every document about excavations and antiquity sites in Israel. They also hold all the documents that have survived since the Ottoman Period and British Mandate about ancient or important sites, including maps and descriptions dating back to the 18th century. We learned about how they conserve the papers and books, and how they store everything. After the archives we had a tour of the building, learning about the building's history as well as learning about the gallery and the artifacts. Then we went into the basement and looked around the storage rooms. They were filled with pottery, ossuaries, and other artifacts that aren't quite good enough for the exhibition. It kind of reminded me of Indiana Jones, with the wooden boxes stacked to the ceiling. After the Rockefeller Museum (and lunch) we went to the Israel Museum to get a private showing of the Dead Sea Scrolls Lab. This is where they do all the restoration and conservation work of the Dead Sea Scrolls. We saw several fragments that are not on display to the public, and saw the hi-tech camera developed by NASA to photograph objects across a large portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. It was really cool to go behind the scenes where they work. The one complaint I had was that we were joined by a group of students from Penn State University who were here for their spring break. I like our small group of six. It makes our lectures and tours more personal, as well as just making it easier to see and hear what is being discussed. It was hard at some points to see the scrolls that were being displayed for us because our group had tripled in size. Nevertheless it was a good experience. After seeing the Dead Sea Scrolls we had some time to walk around the Israel Museum.

Friday and Saturday were the weekend, so we all did different things. I spent the time walking in and around the Old City. I did a lot of tourist things, from seeing the Tower of David to walking through the Kidron Valley beneath the Mount of Olives. I did a lot of walking and a lot of sight-seeing. If you want to know exactly what I did over these days feel free to ask, but it's not important for the post so I will save time by not writing it. Saturday night there was a silent disco Purim party at the hostel. I dressed up as a hippie-flower. I wore a long blond wig, oversize purple shutter glasses, and a red flower on my back. I looked pretty ridiculous. The party was fun and a good break from everything we have been doing. It was nice to stay up really late. We had Sunday off because it was Purim, but we had to catch our bus in the morning to take us back to Akko. When we got back we just relaxed and got settled again.

Monday we went to Caesarea and worked on  mosaics in situ. We were filling in holes with lime mortar where the mosaics had crumbled away in the Byzantine Church (built on top of Herod's Temple of Augustus) It was really interesting to do work filling in mosaics. Because the work was right in the middle of the tourist area there were people walking right by us while we worked, asking us questions about who we were and what we were doing. I felt like a tourist attraction, just like the ruins.

Today we finally went to the International Conservation Center. We got a tour of the building, a little of its history, and a little reception to "celebrate" the Center being open again. We then had lectures by the expert in mosaics. He was the boss of the mosaics lab that we went to in Jerusalem last week. Today he gave lectures about lime mortar, mosaic construction, and mosaic conservation. In the evening we had another Hebrew lesson, in which I did nothing. I listened to the teacher while she was helping everyone else, and occasionally I chimed in to help. It wasn't a very exciting day.

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Mosaics on Mosaics on Mosaics

Here's a short blog post for today. Today was spent entirely in the IAA mosaic lab at the Rockefeller Museum. The lab is in a warehouse behind the museum, filled to the brim with mosaics. The head of the mosaics lab gave us an explanation about mosaic conservation, and then toured us through the lab/warehouse. He said that there were over one thousand meters of mosaics in the warehouse, plus hundreds more in museums around the country. Some of the single mosaic pieces were huge, almost ten meters long! They were in various states of preservation. Some looked like they had just been lifted from an excavation, while others were mounted and framed and looked like they could have been displayed in a museum. I was surprised that we were allowed to take pictures, since it is generally forbidden to take pictures of artifacts in archaeological warehouses, including mosaics.


After the tour we began working on actual mosaics, cleaning the tiles of dirt and debris, preparing them for the rest of the conservation process. For the rest of the day we scraped and picked at the dirt on the tiles, revealing them and cleaning them. It was long, hard work, but very rewarding when the design of the mosaic was visible at the end. I really enjoyed working on the mosaics. Next week we are going to be doing more work with mosaics, and I am looking forward to it!

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

3000 Years of History

Day three in Jerusalem, specifically in the Old City. Today was tour day. We did a few tourist things and then had a private tour with an archaeologist. It was a lot of walking and my feet are somewhat sore right now, but everything was interesting.

The first thing we did was go on the Western Wall Tunnels tour. I have been on the tour at least one time before, so I knew generally what to expect. This tour, however, was very biased. The tour guide was a young religious woman who heavily pushed her agenda of promoting the greatness of Jews and our view of history. While it was great for stories, some of the information she told us was not accurate. She also seemed to be a better tour guide for children than for anyone else, but our tour group was not made up of children so her emphasis on child-like explanations and attitudes did not go over well. It was still nice going into the Wall tunnel and coming out in the fortress. The last time I was on the tour the fortress was closed off and we exited the tunnels at a different location, so seeing something new was cool.

After the Wall Tunnels we went to the Davidson Center and got a presentation/tour of the Southern Excavation Museum. For this tour we focused entirely on what was inside the museum, since our tour in the afternoon would cover everything outside. The tour guide presented a little about the history of the area and some other stuff, and then used a digital visual model to present a reconstructed Temple Mount and southern market area. The model was cool to see and interact with, but the actual content was a little lacking. The tour guide was a little better about giving us relevant information, but he did insert some biased opinions.

After lunch we had an archaeology tour with Yaakov Biling, co-director of the Southern Wall Excavations  who led the excavations of the southern part of the Western Wall. He walked us through the Southern Wall Excavation Gardens and the Second Temple Street beneath the wall. His perspective on the area was unique and he had cool stories about his work at the excavations. He also walked us through other archaeological sites in the Jewish Quarter. We went to the Herodian Quarter, a museum of a Second Temple period basement in a museum, then the Broad Wall. After the Broad Wall we went to the Cardo and learned the history and changes of the thoroughfare and market. We stopped at the Madaba Map before continuing our tour. We then left the Old City via the Zion Gate and walked along the outside of the wall to the Jaffa Gate, where we ended the tour. Yaakov was very interesting, and more professional about the information he presented us. He told many sides to the stories instead of just focusing on stuff relevant to Jews. He told us his opinions, but made sure to let us know that they were his opinions and didn't state them like they were agreed-upon facts. He presented us with a lot of information, but it was all interesting and never boring. Even the things that I knew from before he told in new ways with stories from his history. He made the information personable and engaging, unlike the other tour guides.

I want to clarify that the tour guides that we had today were completely random and I do not blame the ICC or the STS staff for their quality or selection. The staff just organized attending the tours and the tour guides were supplied for us. I was definitely glad we went on the tours and I had a good time today.